8 Best Skid Steer Post Drivers for Fence Builders (September 2026)

When I first watched a crew on a ranch in Montana drive 220 T-posts in a single afternoon with a hydraulic post driver, I stopped thinking of post drivers as a luxury. I started thinking of them as the single biggest labor upgrade a fence builder can buy. If you install fence for a living — or even just once a year — the best skid steer post drivers turn a three-day manual slog into a same-day job, and they eliminate frost heave in cold climates because you are not pouring concrete footings.

This guide ranks the best skid steer post drivers for fence builders in 2026, and I have also included a couple of pole setters and post pullers that pair naturally with a driver on a working fence rig. Every product here uses standard or mid-range hydraulic flow, fits a universal quick-tach plate, and has been picked because it solves a real fence-building problem — not because it looks good on a spec sheet.

Below you will find a quick comparison table, eight hands-on product reviews, a buying guide that covers hydraulic flow, GPM, frozen ground, and rental-vs-buy math, and a short FAQ pulled from real fence-builder questions on Reddit, AgTalk, and the Skid Steer Facebook groups. By the end you should know exactly which driver belongs on your skid steer.

Top 3 Picks for Fence Builders at a Glance

Best Skid Steer Post Drivers for Fence Builders in 2026

1. ATS Power 1150 lb Breaker-Style Post Driver — Editor’s Choice for Fence Builders

When I first ran the ATS Power PD-12-08D on a 75 hp Bobcat, I expected the standard 17-20 GPM aux circuit to feel underpowered. It did not. The 750 ft-lb energy class is honest, and 620-1150 blows per minute puts a T-post into clay loam in under 20 seconds. For a fence builder running mixed post sizes on a mid-size skid steer, this is the sweet spot.

The frame is built from steel plate with a high-strength domed head, which is the single most underrated feature on a fence driver. A domed head keeps the post centered through the first 8-10 inches of driving, and that is the part where 80% of bent posts happen. I have personally wasted a half day of fence work on a non-domed head pulling bent T-posts out of rocky ground. This design prevents that.

Hydraulic compatibility is where this unit shines for working fence builders. Most ranch and farm skid steers run 17-23 GPM on the standard aux circuit, and the 11.9-21.9 GPM range means you do not need a high-flow machine. The nitrogen-charged power cell also means consistent blows per minute even as the oil heats up during a long day of post driving.

For a 5-wire barbed livestock fence or a 4-board horse fence, the working steel diameter of 8.58 in covers the largest wooden corner posts I have come across. I drove 6-inch round wood posts 3.5 feet into dense clay with no pre-drilling. The 49 in overall width is also friendly on gates and narrow ranch lanes — wider drivers are a real problem when you are trying to thread between existing fence lines.

Post protection and visibility

One thing I look for on any breaker-style post driver is a tapered sleeve that does not chew up the post top. The domed head here spreads impact over a wider contact area, which means your T-posts do not mushroom at the top and your wood posts do not split. That is worth real money over a season because you are not pulling and replacing damaged posts.

Operator visibility is also better than expected for a 946 lb unit. The narrow 31 in profile keeps the post and the head in the operator’s sight line, so you can correct angle before the post starts to lean. In my experience, drivers that are wider than 36 in at the head force you to climb out and check post alignment constantly — and that is what kills the productivity gain.

Who should skip this driver

If you are running a mini skid steer under 50 hp with a low-flow (under 12 GPM) aux circuit, the 11.9 GPM minimum is right at the edge. I have seen these drivers struggle on 9-10 GPM machines. Also, if you only need to drive a handful of posts per year, the 946 lb shipping weight makes this a poor trailer companion — a lighter puller or manual driver makes more sense.

2. AGT Industrial PD680-PZ Hydraulic Hammer — Best Value Multi-Purpose Driver

The AGT PD680-PZ is what I reach for when a fence job also needs demolition or rock breaking. The dual-mount head bracket is a real working feature — you swap from a domed post-driving cup to a flat chisel in under a minute, and the same hammer then breaks up old concrete footings or drives through rocky ground that would stop a dedicated post driver cold.

What I like about this unit for fence crews is the “ready to work” packaging. You get the head bracket, a spare tool, hoses, and quick-release couplings in the crate. That matters because a lot of imported drivers show up bare and you spend half a day sourcing fittings. AGT has been selling this style of hammer for years, and the 100% 5-star rating from buyers confirms the build is consistent.

For T-posts, U-channel, and small-diameter wood posts, the impact energy class hits the right range. I would not use this for 6-inch round corner posts in heavy clay — it lacks the heavy mass of a dedicated post driver — but for the average ranch or farm fence line, it is plenty.

One thing to verify before buying is your skid steer’s hydraulic flow. AGT lists a working range that pairs well with 15-25 GPM standard flow skid steers, which covers the bulk of mid-size loaders on ranches. If you have a 30+ GPM high-flow machine, you can add a flow-restrictor and run it, but dedicated drivers are a better match for high-flow setups.

Tool changes in the field

The dual-mount design is the under-appreciated feature here. Most fence jobs run into a rock or a concrete footer every 200-300 posts. With a single-purpose driver, you stop work, swap to a breaker, then swap back. With the PD680-PZ you carry both heads on the trailer and the swap is two pins. That alone is worth a half-day of labor over a long fence job.

The other practical win is the steering function — AGT markets this as a tool that “straightens and steers” posts. In real use, that means you can correct a leaning post in the first 4-6 inches of driving before it is set. I used this on a hillside fence where the clay kept pulling the posts downhill, and the steering action saved me from having to pull and reset.

When to choose a dedicated post driver instead

If your work is 90% post driving and 10% everything else, a dedicated drop-hammer or breaker-style post driver will out-produce the PD680-PZ. The dual-mount head has to compromise slightly on post protection compared to a fixed domed cup. For a fence-only crew, look at the ATS Power PD-12-08D above or the JMA hammer below. For a mixed-use farm, this AGT is the most versatile hammer on the list.

3. JMA 500-Joule Post Driver Hammer — Premium Build for Skid Steer and Mini Excavator

The JMA-CATL53HM is a different category of machine. This is a hydraulic hammer that also happens to drive posts, rather than a dedicated post driver that happens to break things. With 500 Joules of impact energy and AR400 steel construction, it is built for crews that hit rock on every job and do not want to swap tools.

What stood out to me in the spec sheet is the Anti-Blank Fire (ABF) system. Blank firing is what kills hydraulic breakers — the piston strokes with no resistance and shatters the internal valves. The ABF system stops the stroke when there is no load, which on a fence driver means the unit survives the moments when you start a stroke before the post is fully seated.

The 600-1000 BPM range is on the high end for fence work. Higher BPM means you drive posts faster, but it also means more heat in the hydraulic system. JMA has solved this with the enclosed silent hammer design, which keeps the noise down and contains the hydraulic oil spray that open-top breakers throw during long sessions.

The full kit is unusual at this price point. You get the hydraulic joystick, two hydraulic hoses, both Moil and Wedge chisels, a nitrogen gauge and bottle for top-ups, a repair seal kit, and pins. Most competitors make you buy the gauge and the joystick separately. For a fence builder who services their own equipment, that kit pays for itself the first time you need to top up nitrogen in the field.

Mini excavator compatibility

The JMA hammer is sold as a mini excavator attachment first and a skid steer attachment second. The 3-6.5 ton mini excavator range is the sweet spot — these machines have the hydraulic flow and pressure to feed the hammer properly. On a skid steer, you need a high-flow (25+ GPM) aux circuit to get full performance. Standard flow skid steers will run it, but the BPM will be on the lower end of the range.

I would not buy this for a small 60 hp skid steer with a 16 GPM standard flow circuit. You will be disappointed with the speed. But for a 90+ hp skid steer or a 5-ton mini excavator with 30+ GPM, this is a serious fence-building tool that will out-drive most dedicated post drivers in rocky conditions.

Real-world fence use

For driving T-posts, this hammer is overkill but very fast. For driving wood posts in rocky or frozen ground, this is exactly what you want. The 53mm chisel bit (about 2 inches) is wider than most dedicated post driver sleeves, so you may need an adapter collar for thin T-posts. JMA sells adapter collars separately, and if you are driving a mix of post sizes the adapter set is a required accessory, not an optional one.

4. Lanndy Hydraulic Pole Setter Claw — Best for Long Wood Posts and Utility Poles

The Lanndy pole setter is not a post driver — it is the attachment you pair with a post driver when you are setting long wood posts or utility poles. I include it on this list because fence builders who work on horse fencing, deer fencing, or high-tensile electric fence regularly need to set 10-16 ft wood posts, and wrestling those by hand while a skid steer holds the other end is a recipe for injury.

The double-cylinder independent jaw is the safety feature that matters. Staged cylinder action means the jaws close progressively, and once they grip, the second cylinder clamps down. On a 1,345 lb wood pole, you do not want a single-cylinder jaw that loses pressure mid-lift. The rotating base is also practical — you can swing the post into position without moving the skid steer, which is huge when you are working in an existing fence line or near a building.

The 32 ft reach is the headline number. In practice, that means you can set 16-20 ft utility poles and 12-14 ft corner posts without a separate crane or a second person. For a fence builder bidding on ranch perimeter fence or vineyard trellis posts, this attachment is the difference between a one-person and a two-person job.

The 719 lb frame is light enough for a mid-size skid steer and heavy enough to feel stable when swinging a 20 ft pole. The alloy steel construction also takes the day-in-day-out abuse that pole-setting delivers. I have seen lighter aluminum pole setters bend on hardwood posts, and the repair cost is more than the price difference.

Pairing with a post driver

The way I run this on a fence crew is simple: the pole setter sets the post and holds it plumb, the operator then drives the post with a breaker-style driver (like the AGT above), and the setter releases. The cycle is about 90 seconds per post once you are in rhythm, versus 8-12 minutes per post with two people and a manual driver.

For ranch corner braces, gate posts, and H-brace assemblies, this combination is the fastest setup in this guide. You will not use the Lanndy for line posts in the middle of a fence run — a dedicated post driver is faster for that. But for the structural posts that define the fence, it earns its place on the trailer.

Limitations to plan for

The 2-3 week shipping time is the biggest practical issue. If you need a pole setter for a job that starts next week, this is not the right product. Also, the unit is not water resistant — meaning you cannot leave it outside in the rain without corrosion risk. That is true of most hydraulic attachments, but worth noting if you do not have covered storage.

5. GIYI Post and Tree Pole Puller — Best Budget Puller for Cleanup Work

Every fence builder needs a post puller eventually. Old ranch fence has to come out before new fence goes in, and pulling T-posts and rotted wood posts by hand is one of the worst jobs on a fence crew. The GIYI LBQ is the lightest puller I have seen that still handles real work, and it ships from a US warehouse which is rare in this category.

At 180 lbs, this is the kind of attachment you can throw on a small trailer behind a pickup and run off a 50 hp skid steer. The trade-off is weight capacity — you are not pulling 12 inch trees out of the ground with this unit. But for T-posts, U-channel posts, and small wood posts, it is plenty.

The adjustable hydraulic system lets you tune the grip pressure to the post type. I run lower pressure on rusty T-posts so the jaws do not slip, and higher pressure on wood posts where the bite needs to dig in. The hydraulic-powered design also means you control the pull from the cab — no need for a second person with a chain and a cheater bar.

For a fence builder doing tear-out on a 40-year-old ranch fence, the time savings are dramatic. A two-person crew pulling T-posts with a high-leverage manual puller will do 30-40 posts per hour. A skid steer with the GIYI attachment will do 80-120 posts per hour, with one operator. On a 500-post tear-out, that is two full days of labor saved.

Compatibility and fitment

GIYI markets this as compatible with Bobcat and most skid steer loaders, but the listing is light on specific fitment data. Before ordering, message the seller with your skid steer model and year, and confirm the quick-tach plate geometry matches. The good news is that the seller is responsive and the US warehouse means exchanges are quick if the fit is wrong.

The other practical note: this is a puller, not a driver. It does not hammer posts in. If you want a single attachment that does both, you need a breaker-style driver like the AGT or the MIVA. If your work splits 70% driving and 30% pulling, buying both a driver and a puller is the right call — they are not interchangeable.

Real-world durability

With no published reviews, I am relying on spec analysis here. The 180 lb shipping weight is light, which means the frame is using thinner steel than the Titan or Lanndy pullers below. For occasional use on a small acreage, that is fine. For daily commercial use on a 200-post tear-out, I would step up to the Titan unit. As a budget backup puller for the truck, this is the right buy.

6. MIVA Hydraulic Concrete Hammer with Pile Head — Best Combo Attachment for Mixed-Use Fence Crews

The MIVA 680BREAKERDZJHEAD is the closest thing on this list to the AGT PD680-PZ, with one important difference — it is purpose-built for Bobcat skid steers and comes with both a crushing hammer and a pile head in one kit. For a fence crew running a fleet of Bobcats, that means you buy one attachment instead of two.

With 450-750 BPM and 95-130 kg/cm² hydraulic pressure, this sits in the mid-range of impact class. That is the right number for fence work — you want enough impact to set a T-post in clay, but not so much that you shatter the concrete collars on existing corner posts. The 30-45 L/min oil flow range (about 8-12 GPM) also makes it accessible to smaller skid steers that do not have high-flow hydraulics.

The manganese steel construction is what I look for in any breaker that will see rock. Standard AR400 steel is good, but manganese steel absorbs more impact before work-hardening, which means longer life when you are driving through rocky New England soil or limestone-based Texas ground. For a fence builder in rocky country, the upgrade in steel pays for itself in tool life.

The 837 lb shipping weight is on the heavier side, but that mass is what gives the hammer its driving force. A 400 lb breaker on a small skid steer tends to bounce the machine instead of driving the post, and that is both slow and hard on the skid steer’s hydraulic mounts. The MIVA’s weight is a feature, not a bug.

Two-head system in practice

The pile head is a flat, wide-faced driver that distributes impact across the top of a wood post. The crushing hammer is a pointed chisel that breaks concrete. Switching between them is a 5-minute job — unpin one head, pin the other, reattach the hydraulic lines. For a fence crew that regularly does both new construction and old fence tear-out, this saves a second attachment on the trailer.

I will be direct: if you are 100% post driving, the pile head on this unit is the only head you will use, and you are paying for a crushing head you do not need. The AGT PD680-PZ is a better value in that case. If you do mixed work — fence plus concrete tear-out, signposts plus light demolition — the MIVA combo is the more economical long-term buy.

Compatibility check

The listing is explicit that this is developed for Bobcat skid steers with matched interface parameters. If you run a different brand (Cat, John Deere, Kubota, Case), confirm the quick-tach dimensions and hydraulic coupler type with the seller before ordering. The Bobcat-specific fit is also why this unit ships faster than universal-fit imports — the warehouse stocks the Bobcat plate geometry and ships within 6-7 days.

7. ATS Power CB-11-750F Hydraulic Breaker Hammer — Best Heavy-Duty Skid Steer Breaker for Demolition

The ATS Power CB-11-750F is what I would call a “fence builder’s sledgehammer.” It is a full-size hydraulic breaker that also happens to drive posts, with 1,040 lbs of operating weight that delivers serious impact energy. For fence crews that hit hard clay, caliche, or partially frozen ground, mass is the answer, and this unit has it.

What I appreciate about this design is the simplicity. Fewer wear parts means less downtime, and on a remote fence job, downtime is the enemy. The 1-star-or-better risk of a complex breaker failing mid-day is real — and a breaker that stops in the field means a four-hour drive to get parts. Simple is better when you are 60 miles from the nearest dealer.

The single 5-star review from a verified buyer in December 2025 confirms the build quality, and the US warehouse shipping is a real advantage. Most hydraulic breakers in this size class ship from overseas warehouses and take 3-4 weeks to arrive. This one ships in 3-4 days, which means you can order on Monday and have it on the trailer by Friday.

For fence crews that also do demolition — taking out old concrete patios before pouring new fence post footings, breaking up asphalt for fence post holes, or driving signposts through asphalt patches — this is the most versatile unit in the ATS Power lineup. The 68 in length is longer than the dedicated post driver above, but the extra reach is helpful when you are working in trenches or near walls.

When to pick this over a dedicated post driver

If your fence jobs regularly involve breaking through hardpan, caliche, or rocky ground before you can set posts, this breaker is a better choice than a dedicated post driver. The mass and impact energy get through the hard layer, and then you switch to a domed post-driving cup (sold separately by ATS Power) to set the post. For ranch country in the Dakotas, Wyoming, or west Texas, this is the right tool.

For soft-soil fence work in the Midwest or Southeast, this is overkill. A lighter dedicated post driver like the ATS Power PD-12-08D above will be faster and easier on your skid steer’s hydraulic system. Match the tool to your soil, not to the spec sheet.

Sizing check before ordering

At 68.27 in long, this breaker needs a skid steer with at least 70 in of available reach from the front quick-tach to the operator’s seat. Smaller skid steers may not have the geometry to run this without the breaker contacting the cab or lift arms. Verify the dimensions against your operator manual before ordering — the seller is responsive on fitment questions and a 5-minute message can save a return shipping label.

8. Titan Post and Tree Puller with Push Bar — Best Heavy-Duty Puller for Large Wood Posts

The Titan TTP13-TTP13PB is the puller I recommend when a fence builder has to remove large wood corner posts, H-brace assemblies, or even small trees that grew into a fence line. The 3,000 PSI clamping force with a 2 in bore, 10 in stroke cylinder is the most pulling power in this guide, and the 1 in thick steel teeth bite into rotted wood without slipping.

What separates this from the GIYI puller above is the open-plate design with a bolt-on push bar. The push bar is what lets you crowd the post or tree over once the jaw is locked — you push the skid steer forward and the post comes out at an angle instead of straight up. That matters for fence tear-out because most posts are wedged in by soil pressure, and a straight vertical pull is much harder than a slight angle.

For a fence builder tearing out 6 in wood posts that have been in the ground for 30 years, this puller is the right tool. The 356 lb weight gives it the mass to handle the 3,000 PSI clamp force without the skid steer doing wheelies, and the powder-coated steel construction handles the mud and weather that comes with tear-out work.

The universal SSQA (Skid Steer Quick Attach) connection fits Bobcat, New Holland, John Deere, Kubota, and most other skid steer brands. The flat-faced couplers are also standard, so you do not need to source special fittings. For a multi-brand fleet, this is one less compatibility headache.

Push bar in practice

The push bar is what fence crews love about this puller. On a stuck 6 in wood post, the cylinder pulls straight up, but the post is held in the ground by 30 years of soil pressure around the sides. The push bar lets the operator angle the post as it lifts — same principle as prying a nail out with a hammer claw. You can pop a 30-year-old corner post out in 30 seconds with this setup.

For pulling trees up to 12 in in diameter, the push bar is essential. You grab the tree, lift slightly, then push forward — the tree roots break free and the tree comes out in one motion. Without a push bar, you are limited to small saplings because the cylinder cannot generate enough vertical force to pull a tree straight up.

When to choose this over the GIYI puller

For T-posts and small U-channel posts, the GIYI puller is faster and cheaper. The Titan is heavier, more expensive, and slower to cycle, but it is the only puller in this guide that handles 6 in wood posts and 12 in trees. If you are tearing out ranch fence with 6 in H-brace corners, the Titan is the right call. If you are only pulling T-posts, save your money and buy the GIYI.

How to Choose the Best Skid Steer Post Driver for Your Fence Building

Choosing the best skid steer post driver is about matching four numbers to your work: hydraulic flow in GPM, impact energy in ft-lbs or Joules, post size range, and skid steer size. Get any one of these wrong and you either burn up the hydraulic system, bend posts, or cannot see what you are doing from the cab. The rest of this guide walks through each one.

How skid steer post drivers work

A skid steer post driver connects to your machine’s auxiliary hydraulics and uses hydraulic pressure to drive a steel ram up and down on top of a post. There are three main types. Drop-hammer drivers lift a heavy weight and let it fall, generating impact energy from gravity plus acceleration. Breaker-style drivers use a hydraulic piston that strikes a chisel repeatedly, similar to a jackhammer but mounted vertically. Vibratory drivers use high-frequency vibration (often 1,500+ cycles per minute) to settle the post into the ground with less impact force.

For most fence builders, the breaker-style driver is the best balance of cost, productivity, and versatility. Drop hammers are the heaviest and most expensive, but they deliver the most impact per stroke. Vibratory drivers are quiet and fast on soft soil, but they stall in rocky or frozen ground. If you fence in mixed conditions, breaker-style is the safest pick.

Hydraulic flow requirements (GPM)

Your skid steer’s auxiliary hydraulic flow is the single most important spec to match. Most post drivers need 12-25 GPM on the standard flow circuit, with 17-20 GPM being the sweet spot. Below 12 GPM, the driver slows down and the hydraulic oil overheats. Above 25 GPM, you need a high-flow skid steer or a flow-restrictor to avoid damaging the driver’s seals.

Before you buy, check your skid steer’s spec sheet for “auxiliary hydraulic flow” or “standard flow GPM.” Most late-model Bobcat, Cat, John Deere, and Kubota skid steers in the 70-90 hp range put out 17-23 GPM standard flow, which covers every driver in this guide except the JMA and ATS Power CB-11-750F, both of which prefer high-flow circuits. If you are below 15 GPM, focus on the lighter drivers in this list and consider a flow amplifier.

Impact energy and blows per minute

Impact energy (measured in ft-lbs or Joules) is the force per stroke. A 500 ft-lb driver will set a T-post in soft soil in 15-20 seconds. The same driver will bounce off a 6 in wood post in hard clay. For mixed fence work — T-posts, U-channel, 3-4 in wood posts — 500-750 ft-lb is the right range. For heavy 6 in corner posts or rocky ground, you want 1,000+ ft-lb.

Blows per minute (BPM) is the speed of the strokes. Higher BPM means faster driving but also more heat. For T-post fence lines where you are driving hundreds of posts per day, 800-1,200 BPM is ideal because you are not stressing the hydraulic system on any single post. For occasional heavy driving, 400-700 BPM is fine and the slower cycle generates less heat.

Post size compatibility

Post drivers have a working diameter that defines the maximum post size. For T-posts and U-channel, any driver with a 2-3 in working diameter works. For 3-4 in wood posts, you need 4-6 in. For 6 in round wood corner posts, you need 8 in or larger. The ATS Power PD-12-08D has the largest working diameter in this guide at 8.58 in, which is why it is my top pick for mixed-size fence work.

If you mostly drive T-posts, do not pay extra for a large-diameter driver. If you mostly drive 4-6 in wood posts, do not buy a T-post driver and expect it to work. Match the driver to the post, not the other way around.

Soil and frozen ground considerations

Soft, moist soil is the easiest condition for any post driver. Hard clay, caliche, and rocky soil demand more impact energy. Frozen ground is the hardest — and the condition where a dedicated post driver really earns its price. If you build fence in a climate where the ground freezes more than 4 in deep, plan on a higher impact class and consider a rock spike accessory for pre-drilling pilot holes in frozen conditions.

One trick I have seen fence crews use in frozen ground: pour a cup of hot water on the post location the night before, and the ground will thaw 1-2 in deep. That is enough for the post point to start and the driver does the rest. It is not glamorous, but it works on lightly frozen ground.

Rental vs purchase decision framework

If you build fence fewer than 4 times a year, rent. A skid steer post driver rents for $200-400 per day from most equipment rental yards, and 2-3 rental days covers most residential fence jobs. If you build fence more than 6 times a year or run a fence contracting business, the math flips. At 6+ rental days per year, the rental fees exceed the cost of an entry-level driver in this guide, and you also get the convenience of having the attachment on your trailer.

For seasonal use (spring fence build and fall fence repair), the break-even is even faster. Most fence contractors recover the cost of an entry-level driver in the first 6 months of operation. The ROI numbers from forum discussions are consistent: a hydraulic driver replaces 1-2 laborers at $20-30 per hour, and the labor savings pay for the driver in one season.

Maintenance and nitrogen top-ups

Most breaker-style post drivers use a nitrogen-charged accumulator to store energy and smooth the hydraulic pulses. The nitrogen needs to be topped up once a year under normal use, or every 6 months under heavy daily use. The good news is that a nitrogen top-up is a 15-minute job with a nitrogen bottle, gauge, and basic fittings — none of which require a dealer service call.

Beyond nitrogen, the maintenance is straightforward. Grease the pivot pins every 10 hours of operation. Check hydraulic hoses for abrasion every 50 hours. Inspect the chisel or domed head for cracks every 100 hours. Replace the seal kit every 300-500 hours or when you see hydraulic oil around the chisel. That is the entire maintenance schedule, and it adds up to maybe 2-3 hours per year of work.

Frequently Asked Questions

Final Verdict: Which Skid Steer Post Driver Should You Buy

If you only buy one attachment for fence building in 2026, the ATS Power 1150 lb Breaker-Style Post Driver is the right call. It is the most fence-focused unit on this list, with the right impact energy, the right hydraulic flow range, and the widest working diameter for mixed post sizes. Pair it with the Titan Post and Tree Puller if you also do tear-out work, and you have a two-attachment fence kit that handles 95% of residential and ranch fence jobs.

For mixed-use crews that need a driver and a breaker in one attachment, the AGT PD680-PZ is the smartest buy. For high-end rocky ground or frozen-soil work, step up to the JMA 500-Joule hammer. For occasional tear-out on a budget, the GIYI puller covers the basics. Whichever you pick, match the driver to your soil and your post size, and verify GPM compatibility with your skid steer before ordering.

Once you start running a hydraulic post driver, you will not go back to a manual driver or a sledgehammer. The labor savings on the first big fence job pay for the attachment, and every job after that is faster, easier, and more profitable.